Major Newspapers in Buenos Aires

The two main Spanish-language newspapers in Buenos Aires are Clarín and La Nación (The Nation). I find the depth and quality of journalism of both papers to be very high. I do, however, prefer to read Clarín primarily because it is published in a smaller tabloid format.

Newspapers are sold at newspaper/magazine stands on many streets, and in grocery stores.

Both Clarín and La Nación are typically available in cafes for you to read free of charge while enjoying your cafe con leche and medialunas

Buenos Aires has one daily English-language newspaper: the Buenos Aires Herald. Founded way back in 1876, it serves the city’s expat community. The Herald is not as widely circulated as the Spanish-language papers.

Take Buquebus to Uruguay

Buquebus (BOO-kay-boos) is the name of ferries that operate between Buenos Aires and Uruguay. A trip to Uruguay can be a fun day trip or weekend excursion.

Buquebus ferries run daily between Buenos Aires and two Uruguay destinations: Colonia and Montevideo. Colonia is a small historic town with cobblestone streets and restored buildings. Montevideo is the capital of Uruguay. It’s like a mini Buenos Aires with about a million inhabitants.

Another popular destination in Uruguay is Punta del Este, a beach resort on the ocean. Ferries don’t run directly to Punta del Este. Instead you have to take a ferry to either Colonia or Montevideo, then take a bus from there. You can arrange the bus transportation through Buquebus at the same time you buy your ferry ticket.

The trip between Buenos Aires and Colonia takes 3 hours on the regular ferry or just 1 hour on the fast ferry. The trip to Montevideo takes 3 hours on the fast ferry.

The bus ride from Montevideo to Punta del Este is about 2 hours.

Tickets are not expensive. For example, a round-trip ticket in tourist class from Buenos Aires to Colonia on the fast ferry costs about 260 pesos (roughly US$75). The slow ferry is even cheaper. First class tickets are available, though I find there’s plenty of room in tourist class. 

Buquebus often has good package deals to Colonia, Montevideo and Punta del Este that include ferry, hotel and bus transfers if needed. These special offers are posted on their website and in the travel section of the Sunday newspapers. At the time of this writing there is a special weekend offer of 124 pesos (about US$36) for a roundtrip ticket to Colonia on the slow ferry. 

You can buy tickets online at the Buquebus website, at the terminal which is located in Puerto Madero, or at one of the Buquebus offices. Offices are located in Recoleta at Posadas 1452, downtown at Córdoba 879, and at the Retiro bus station.

To take the ferry you will need your passport and the tourist card you received when you originally entered Argentina. When you leave Uruguay you will have to pay a departure tax. If I recall correctly the tax is about US$12.

Cabello Square Apartments Modern and Well-Located

I recently rented a furnished apartment in Cabello Square, a nine-story building in Palermo Chico built in 2007. Overall, I enjoyed my month-long stay and found a lot of reasons to recommend the place. I’ll list those below, as well as a few areas where I feel the apartment came up short.

The main reasons why I chose Cabello Square were location and security. The building is well-located in a quiet, upscale part of Palermo. The zoo, parks, a movie theater, the subway, and Alto Palermo mall are all within a ten minute walk. Plus there are numerous stores and restaurants nearby.

The building is on a residential street and there is not much traffic noise, a rarity for Buenos Aires. 

By the way, if you are extremely sensitive to noise I recommend looking for an apartment that faces the interior, not the street. These apartments are called contrafrente. They aren’t all that common as tourist rentals since most tourists prefer a balcony on the street, facing the action. I don’t believe Cabello Square has any contrafrente apartments available for rent, though I’m not certain.

The building has a 24 hour doorman, good for security and convenience. 

The rooftop pool is a nice amenity and I used it often. There is also a small gym with basic exercise equipment.

Unlike most apartments which can be rented through any number of rental agents, bookings at Cabello Square are handled exclusively by RentinBA. In fact, the RentinBA office is located on the sixth floor. This is extremely handy and there’s a level of comfort in knowing that someone is nearby to answer questions or respond to problems.

I was impressed by RentinBA and liked the staff. I found them to be the most efficient and professional of all the rental agencies I’ve dealt with so far. They speak excellent English and respond promptly to calls and emails.

So where does Cabello Square come up short? I think the answer is in one’s expectations. The website describes Cabello Square as “luxury living in Buenos Aires” and “the finest address in Buenos Aires”. These are exaggerations. The apartments are nice but not luxurious. In fact, the furnishings are quite basic. You can definitely find more luxurious furnished apartments, though the rent will likely be higher.

Also, the walls are thin and you’ll definitely hear your neighbor’s TV, and even loud conversations.

I paid $1200 for my one month rental. When I booked the unit I had to send a $600 deposit by PayPal. The deposit was returned by PayPal after my stay. Unfortunately, PayPal charged me a fee on the incoming funds so I was out about $23.

Cabello Square is located at Cabello 3181.

You can get more information and see which units are available at the Cabello Square website. Plus here’s a link to RentinBA where you can find even more rental options.

A Typical Breakfast in Buenos Aires

Breakfast in Buenos Aires is light and relaxed. There’s no rush. Take your time. Read the paper — most cafes provide them. And best of all, enjoy excellent espresso-style coffee.

Maybe it’s because they dine so late at night. Or perhaps they are watching their wallet or waistline. Whatever the reason, seldom do Porteños start the day with a heavy meal.

Forget about omelettes, sausages, bacon and pancakes. Instead, expect medialunas and tostadas.

Medialunas are reason enough to visit Buenos Aires. Similar to a croissant, they come in two forms: sweet (dulce) or not sweet (de grasa). I’ve seen more than one tourist become addicted to them.

Tostadas are slices of toasted baquette, usually served in a basket with peach or berry jam, butter and spreadable cheese.

It seems there’s a cafe on every corner of the city and I’m sure every one serves coffee, medialunas and tostadas.

Coffee comes in a variety of forms but cafe con leche is commonly ordered. It’s delicious espresso coffee with steamed milk. If you want stronger coffee with less milk, ask for un cortado.

Often a small glass of fresh squeezed orange juice and a glass of mineral water will accompany the food and coffee at no extra charge.

Expect to pay between 8 and 15 pesos (USD$2.50 to $4.50) for a typical Buenos Aires breakfast.

Electricity, Voltage, Outlets and Plugs in Argentina

Electricity in Argentina is 220 volts, 50 Hertz, AC.

In recent years Argentina has switched to Type I plugs and outlets. These are diagonal with flat prongs. The neutral and line wires are reversed from that used in Australia and other countries.

Some buildings still use older Type C outlets which have round prongs.

Some buildings have hybrid outlets which accept both Type I and C plugs.

Depending on where you are from, you may need a plug adapter or voltage converter. When using a plug adapter (which simply changes the shape of the plug so it will fit in the outlet) make sure the voltage of the appliance is compatible. This information is listed on the appliance.

For example, North American visitors can usually use a plug adapater with a laptop computer since most laptop computers can accept 120-220V and no voltage converter is required. This may not be true for other appliances such as hair dryers. The appliance may not be designed to work at 220V.

Renting a Cell Phone

If you need to rent a cell phone while visiting Buenos Aires here are a few of your options.

If you are renting an apartment from an agency, the agency may be able to set you up. For example, when I needed a second cellular for my girlfriend’s use the agency handling my apartment rental provided one free of charge. All I had to do was pay for the minutes. Hotels also often provide cell phones.

If you plan on staying in the city for a while, you may find it cost-effective and convenient to buy a phone. I purchased a basic pay-as-you-go phone from Movistar in 2007. To buy the phone I simply went to their office in Microcentro with my passport, filled out the necessary forms and voila — I had my very own permanent Buenos Aires phone number. It didn’t cost a lot either. I believe I paid the equivalent of about US$50, and that included about US$20 of talk time. To charge the phone I buy Movistar recharge cards which are available at kiosks all around the city.

Another option is to bring your existing cell phone to Argentina and get a local SIM card. SIM cards are available from any of the three main cell providers: Movistar, Claro and Personal. I’ve never tried this option. I assume your phone must be unlocked and compatible with the local network.

Finally, there are a number of companies that will rent you a phone. One such company is called Phonerental. They deliver the phone to you and pick it up when you are done, 24/7. Last time I checked their rates, there was no charge for the first week’s rental and local minutes cost 72 centavos (about 20 cents US).

Oh Oh, Travelers Diarrhea

Even though the water in Buenos Aires is safe to drink, upset stomach or travelers diarrhea can still strike. Last December I discovered, much to my dismay, that two common, effective, brand-name products that help relieve the symptoms of upset stomach are not available in Argentina. These products are Pepto Bismol and Immodium. Fortunately, similar generic products are sold at some pharmacies.

The Pepto Bismol substitute I used is called crema de bismuto. I really don’t know how it compares to the name-brand product, but it looks and tastes similar. The pharmacist assured me it was essentially the same thing.

Whatever the case, if you are susceptible to stomach upset when you travel and rely on products like Pepto Bismol or Immodium, I suggest bringing them with you.

Best Steak in Buenos Aires? Try Cabaña Las Lilas

I haven’t tried every steak restaurant in Buenos Aires (though I’d like to), but I doubt I’ll find a better steak than the one I had at Cabaña Las Lilas.

And not only is the food delicious but the service is unbelievably attentive. Dine here and you’ll have swarms of wait staff at your beck and call.

Cabaña Las Lilas enjoys a reputation as perhaps the best parrilla in Buenos Aires. You’ll see this restaurant highly recommended in most guide books, and justifiably so. The proprietors of this restaurant have been in the cattle business for decades and understand all there is to know about beef. The meat they serve comes from their own ranch.

Of course, a great steak doesn’t come cheap, not even in Argentina. Cabaña Las Lilas is one of the more expensive restaurants in Buenos Aires. But despite the high prices, the atmosphere is lively and informal. You can view a menu (in Spanish) on their website.

Cabaña Las Lilas is located in Puerto Madero at Alicia Moreau de Justo 516.

There are plans to open locations in the United States and Europe.

Get a Copy of El Tangauta

If you’re a tango dancer visiting Buenos Aires, one of the first things you’ll want to do after you arrive in the city is pick up a copy of El Tangauta.

El Tangauta is a free magazine that is loaded with valuable tango information. Inside you’ll find a detailed current schedule of practically all tango classes and milongas happening in the city, plus ads and information on tango stores, events and instructors.

It’s not always that easy to find a copy of El Tangauta. The magazine is freely distributed in tango stores such as Tango Brujo, Neo Tango and DNI Tango. If you don’t see it, ask for it.

Digital editions are available online at the El Tangauta website. The magazine also has a Facebook page.

Good Instructors, Crowded Classes at DNI Tango

DNI Tango is possibly the most popular tango school in Buenos Aires for anyone interested in learning the “tango nuevo” style. The school has an outstanding reputation due largely to the superb dancing skills of the proprietors, Pablo Villarraza and Dana Frigoli.

I took a few dozen classes at DNI over the past couple of years. Although this school is one of the best places in the city to learn tango nuevo, it is not without its shortcomings.

DNI offers classes every day of the week except Sunday. But many of these classes are extremely crowded. I really don’t know why they pack a few dozen people into a tiny, hot room when other rooms seem to be available. Students often spill out into the reception area. If they were teaching traditional, closed-embrace techniques the lack of space wouldn’t matter. But the elaborate tango nuevo sequences taught at DNI require room to move. 

My other complaint is the lack of structure among the levels. The schedule indicates six levels of tango but the steps often seem equally complex in all levels except level one. What’s more, many of the same people seem to take classes in every level.

Despite these complaints, DNI has a wonderful, friendly, encouraging atmosphere. Plus there is no denying that the instructors are very good dancers and the steps are creative and inspiring.

DNI Tango is located at Corrientes 2140. I don’t recall seeing a sign outside. Go inside the door, up a few stairs, and ring the buzzer to be let in.

DNI also offers yoga classes.

Here’s a link to the DNI Tango website.