MALBA (el Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires), is a relatively new museum that houses a number of excellent works of art by important Latin American artists such as Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, and Fernando Botero. The museum opened in 2001.

MALBA’s collection focuses on art produced in Latin America during the twentieth century. It includes over 270 works by artists from Argentina, Brazil, Mexico and other Latin American countries.

Most of its works were donated by MALBA’s founder.

Works of note include Retrato de Ramón Gómez de la Serna (Portrait of Ramón Gómez de la Serna) by Diego Rivera, Abaporú by Tarsila do Amaral, La mañana verde (The Green Morning) by Wifredo Lam, Autorretrato con chango y loro (Self-portrait with Monkey and Parrot) by Frida Kahlo, El viudo (The Widower) by Fernando Botero and Rompecabezas (Puzzle) by Jorge de la Vega.        

MALBA is located in Palermo at Figueroa Alcorta 3415.

You can find more information at the MALBA website.

There are several good places to buy men’s tango shoes in Buenos Aires. Here’s what you’ll find at a few of the stores I’ve visited. 

Neo Tango, located at Sarmiento 1938, has perhaps the best selection of men’s tango shoes in Buenos Aires. Styles range from conservative to ridiculously flamboyant. They also sell about a dozen different styles of dance sneakers, which are called zapatillas in Argentina. Prices aren’t cheap. Expect to pay 300 or 400 pesos. I purchased a pair of zapatillas at Neo Tango in 2007 and have been satisfied with them.

Only a few blocks away from Neo Tango is DNI Tango, a popular tango school located at Corrientes 2140. Although DNI sells only a few styles of tango shoes and sneakers, their shoes have a great reputation. I purchased a pair of men’s shoes at DNI on the recommendation of a tango instructor I know and am extremely pleased with them. The quality is good, they are comfortable and — most importantly — they give me excellent balance. I only wish they had my size in a color other than black. These shoes are somewhat unique in that the toe portion of the sole has a small rubber insert to provide grip when needed.

Another tango school, Tango Brujo, located in Microcentro at Esmeralda 754, also sells men’s shoes. Some of the styles are quite eye-catching but, as often seems to be the case in Buenos Aires, the selection narrows dramatically depending on your size. I purchased a pair of zapatillas at Tango Brujo in 2007 and wore them to death. However, I think the zapatillas at DNI provide better support and balance.

Darcos Tango, Suipacha 259, is one of the best-known shoe stores in the city. They have a large selection of men’s shoes, plus their website is well set-up for online sales.

Other stores worth checking out are Fabio Shoes on Riobamba, Lolo Gerard at Anchorena 607, and Victorio Tango Shoes.

Know of any other good places to buy men’s tango shoes in Buenos Aires? Please post it below.

Sahara Continent is a fun, three-level nightclub in Recoleta. In the evening it doubles as a restaurant. Come here if you want to party, mix with locals and other tourists, and groove to reggaeton, pop and other club vibes. Sahara attracts a diverse crowd ranging in age from 20 to 35. The interior has an Arabian theme.

I went to Sahara a few weeks ago on a Friday night, and arrived around midnight. Midnight is early in Buenos Aires so people were still kicking back, finishing dinner. A belly dancer provided entertainment.

Around 1 am the staff removed the tables, the DJ cranked up the music and the restaurant transformed into a boliche (that’s what they call nightclubs in Buenos Aires).

The sound system is good and loud and the music (at least on the main level) was designed for having a good time with lots of reggaeton and Latin beats.

People started coming in around 2 and by 3 o’clock the main level was full. The people were friendly and the energy good.

Sahara Continent is located across from the entrance of Recoleta Cemetery, close to Recoleta Village.

You can see more pictures of Sahara Continent at their website.

What’s the best neighborhood in Buenos Aires? Well, the decision of where a person wants to live often comes down to a matter of taste, lifestyle and personal preference. That said, let’s take a look at my favorite neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, ranked in order from best to least-best.

Palermo

Palermo is probably the best neighborhood for tourists to stay in while in Buenos Aires. It’s loaded with good bars and restaurants, it’s close to shopping, there are lots of boutique hotels and furnished apartments available, it’s pretty safe and most parts of Palermo are close to the subte (subway). Plus, for tango dancers, several good milongas are nearby.

Palermo is a huge zone which divides into several smaller zones including Palermo Chico, Palermo Viejo and Las Cañitas. Palermo Viejo can be further divided into Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho. In my experience, locals generally use the term “Palermo Viejo” while tourists talk about staying in “Palermo Hollywood” or “Palermo Soho”.

Although most tourists seem to gravitate to Palermo Soho, I prefer the part of Palermo north of Sante Fe. It’s a little quieter at night, slightly more upscale and perhaps a touch safer. If you can find a good furnished apartment close to the Alto Palermo mall, north of Sante Fe, that is ideal. The location is perfect. It’s close to everything including the subte.

Recoleta

Many repeat visitors to Buenos Aires feel that Recoleta is the best neighborhood for tourists. They may be right.

Recoleta is more upscale than Palermo Soho or Palermo Hollywood (but not Palermo Chico). The area has the feel and some of the charm of old Europe.

Recoleta is home to some of the city’s most expensive hotels, plus high-end shops and galleries.

Nonetheless I prefer Palermo over Recoleta for several reasons: 1) many of the furnished apartments in Recoleta are in older buildings and less modern than the newer Palermo lofts and studios, 2) most parts of Recoleta are a long walk from the subte, and 3) the area feels quite touristy, especially around Recoleta Village. Also, there are quite a few upscale “gentlemen’s clubs” around Recoleta Village which makes the area somewhat seedy at night.

Barrio Norte

I’ve spent a lot of time in Buenos Aires and I’m still not 100% clear on where Barrio Norte is located. It seems to mean different things to different people. As best as I can tell, Barrio Norte generally refers to parts of Palermo and Recoleta near Sante Fe Avenue. If that’s where it is, I like it.

Microcentro

Microcentro is what some people might call “downtown Buenos Aires” or “el centro”. There are quite a few good hotels in Microcentro and it’s a good choice for a business trip. Microcentro is very noisy and busy.

San Telmo

I have friends who refuse to stay anywhere else but in San Telmo. They feel they get the “authentic Buenos Aires experience” in San Telmo. It certainly has its charm. There are plenty of tango bars here, and prices for accommodations are generally lower than in other popular neighborhoods. San Telmo is not as upscale as Recoleta or Palermo. The dark streets can be a little dicey at night.

Puerto Madero

I really don’t know why anyone would want to stay in Puerto Madero. I think this neighborhood is the destination for tourists with “more dollars than sense.”

Puerto Madero is a recently redeveloped port area where you’ll find the most expensive luxury condos in Buenos Aires, a handful of high-end hotels, and a row of fancy (and probably over-priced) restaurants. I’ve seen Puerto Madero described as “isolated and artificial”. That sums it up.

One plus is that the Ecological Preserve is nearby. It’s a nice place for a quiet Sunday stroll. One of the best hotels in South America, Hotel Faena, is located in Puerto Madero. So is the outstanding Las Lilas steak restaurant.

Belgrano

Belgrano is a lovely residential neighborhood just west of Palermo. The problem with Belgrano is the location. It’s too far from the things most tourists like to do.

There are a lot of trendy, popular restaurants in Palermo, especially around Plaza Cortázar, but Bar 6 is one of my favorites. It’s ultra-stylish, and the food is excellent.

The high ceilings, good sound system and cool ambience make this a good place for dinner or just drinks.

Most of the tables and seats are on the main floor but there are a couple of small tables tucked away upstairs if you want a little more intimacy or a bird’s eye view of the other patrons.

The music can be fairly loud so I wouldn’t recommend this for a romantic date or intense conversation.

The fusion menu is outstanding and well-conceived. The wok dishes in particular are exceptional and not expensive.

Bar 6 is located at Armenia 1676.

You can see a menu and photos at the Bar 6 website.

When people ask me for tips on things to do in Buenos Aires, two things always top my list: 1) Visit Recoleta Cemetery and 2) Take a tango class at La Viruta.

La Viruta is a milonga located in the basement of the Armenian Cultural Center in Palermo. If you’re new to tango, let me explain that a “milonga” is simply a place to dance tango. In the case of La Viruta you can also dance Cuban-style salsa or something the porteños call “rock and roll”, which is swing dancing.

Here’s how your night will go at La Viruta.

First, you check the schedule at the website and decide you want to take the 9pm tango class. Because you plan to have a bite to eat, you call in advance to reserve a table.

When you arrive you head downstairs and pay the 15 peso entry fee. (Once inside, after the class, you can buy discounted entry coupons if you plan to return and take more classes.)

You take your seat and watch students finish their sweaty class of salsa. You notice that the decor is not by any means fancy but the energy is good.

After the salsa class finishes, the tango music starts and the instructors head to the dance floor. They improvise a couple of songs. The dancing is sensational – vibrant and alive. You’re inspired and ready for your class.

One of the owners introduces the teachers and further energizes the crowd. He explains that “beginners go here, intermediate level 1 students go there” etc. You join the group at your level and enjoy the class. You see that partners are rotated frequently so it’s unnecessary to bring a friend. You make new friends quickly.

After the class, the milonga begins. At first, there are dancers of all levels on the dance floor. As the night goes on better dancers arrive.

Now it’s 4 in the morning. You’re mezmerized by the music, atmosphere, energy and dance. It’s at this moment that you realize that tango will be your life-long passion.

Here’s a link to La Viruta’s website.

AAA Apartments rents out a number of furnished studio apartments in a relatively new building near the corner of Austria and Pacheco de Melo. I spent a month in one of these apartments in 2007.

The apartments aren’t large. I would guess about 350 square feet. But they are modern and reasonably comfortable with a full fridge, internet connection and air conditioning.  If you are coming to Buenos Aires during the summer months, air conditioning is essential. My unit also had a safe.

The agent in charge of rentals spoke fluent English and was punctual and helpful. These are well-managed apartments.

I liked the location a lot. It feels like a neighborhood. It’s close to a supermarket and cafes, and there is laundry service across the street. It’s about a 10 minute walk to the Agüero subway station on Santa Fe.

Maid service was included. If I recall correctly, she cleaned three times per week.

A couple of things you need to know if you are going to stay here. Austria is quite a busy street and there is a lot of traffic noise. The morning buses are particularly loud. Also, this building does not have a 24 hour security guard or doorman.

The website lists the rates as $90 per night, $500 per week or $1300 per month. I paid about $1000 for a month in 2007.

One thing I noticed about apartment rentals in Buenos Aires is that owners and agents are usually willing to negotiate the price, especially during non-peak season. They would rather keep the unit occupied at a lower rate than let it sit vacant. So don’t be shy about trying to talk down the price.

Abasto Shopping is the largest mall in Buenos Aires with over 230 shops, movie theaters, an enormous food court that includes a Kosher McDonalds, an arcade called Neverland and a fantastic play area for children called Museo de Los Niños. The mall is conveniently located at Carlos Gardel station on the “B” line of the subte. In fact, you can exit the subway and walk directly into the lower level of the mall.

Many of the stores at Abasto Shopping participate in the Tax Free Shopping program for tourists. You may be able to get an additional 10% discount at certain stores if you have a special promotion card available from the concierge at many hotels or at the mall customer service desk.

The shops are open from 10am to 10pm every day of the week.

Confiteria Ideal is one of the most famous milongas in Buenos Aires. And for tango dancers visiting Buenos Aires for the first time, a night at Confiteria Ideal is usually high on the list of things to do. But if you are looking for a milonga packed with local dancers, with a lot of local flavor, this might not be the best place to go. I’ve only been to this milonga twice, but both times it seemed to me there were far more tourists than locals.

Confiteria Ideal is located at Suipacha 380, close to Corrientes, not far from the Obelisk. Inside, it is quite breath-taking: two levels, high ceilings, magnificent chandeliers and lots of rich wood. Classes are held on the main floor while the milonga takes place upstairs.

On my last visit in November, I took an evening class with Eduardo Saucedo and his partner Marisa Quiroga. Eduardo is a magnificent, elegant dancer and he displays a genuine interest in helping his students become better dancers. I learned a couple of things from him that helped me a lot and that I will never forget. Simple things really, like how to properly support the woman in a volcada. I use volcadas all the time but Eduardo’s explanation helped me discover the best technique for me… finally! I’d love to take more classes with him.

The class was a mix of all levels, including plenty of beginners. After a few group exercises, Eduardo separated the class into two levels, and bounced back and forth between the two groups. I’d estimate there were 30 people in all. 

After the class, people headed upstairs for the milonga.

I think part of the reason why this milonga attracts more tourists than locals may be the price. The class cost 25 pesos and the milonga cost another 25. That’s 50 pesos. The going rate at other milongas seems to be about 15 pesos for a class and a milonga. Most porteños don’t have a lot of spare cash and won’t pay 50 pesos when they could go elsewhere for 15. That said, a friend told me that locals pay a lower price. If anyone can confirm this, please post the information below.

The music and ambience are purely traditional, as you might expect from a place founded in 1912.

The serving staff were excruciatingly slow and it took forever to get a drink.

Don’t get me wrong, I like Confiteria Ideal and I’m glad I went. But it is not among my favorite Buenos Aires milongas.

There’s more information at the Ideal website.

Taxis are everywhere in Buenos Aires and you’ll almost certainly use them during your trip.

There are two types of taxis in Buenos Aires: radio taxis and regular taxis. Radio taxis can be identified by the sign on the roof that says “radio taxi”. If you wish, you can call a radio taxi to pick you up at your location. Or you can flag down either a radio taxi or a regular taxi in the street. You rarely have to wait more than a couple minutes for an available taxi to come by, unless perhaps if it is raining, or you are in a remote location.

Some guidebooks recommend only calling radio taxis and never catching a random taxi in the street. This may be overly cautious. Practically speaking, it is common practice to catch taxis in the street. Even at high-end hotels in Buenos Aires I’ve seen staff simply flag down taxis for tourists rather than calling them. But as a miminum precaution I would suggest only flagging down radio taxis and avoiding regular taxis entirely.

The logic behind the recommendation to call a radio taxi is that the company will have a record of the pick-up so the taxi driver is accountable and therefore unlikely to rob or kidnap you. Radio taxis are generally thought to be more reputable.

Radio taxis became popular after the financial crisis of 2001/2002 when times become tough for Argentines and street taxis became more frequently involved in kidnappings. That fear has lessened somewhat in recent years.

However, taxis remain involved in crime. As recently as this September the newspaper Clarín reported that a taxi driver was arrested for raping or assaulting as many as six young female tourists. He would pick them up leaving a Palermo nightclub late at night when they were alone.

Taxi drivers have been known to switch real bills for fake bills. Here’s a typical scenario, the passenger, usually an unwitting tourist who speaks no Spanish, gives the driver a 100 peso bill. The driver takes it and does a quick switcheroo, returning a fake 100 peso bill to the passenger and explaining that the bill is no good.

Taxis at the Retiro train station have a particularly bad reputation for trying to rip-off passengers. It happened to a friend of mine. It’s best to keep small bills on hand to pay taxis.

Personally, I have flagged down more than 100 taxis in the street, including regular taxis, and never had a bad experience. However, I am tall, male, speak Spanish, and know the city. I certainly don’t like the idea of my girlfriend taking street taxis alone in Buenos Aires. I would want her to call a radio taxi or step inside a hotel and ask them to call a radio taxi for her.

One more note about taxis: they may not stop for you if you are standing on the driver’s side of the street. They are only supposed to pick up passengers on the passenger’s side of the street.